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Cape Ann Coastline
I haven’t written a new post in about three weeks, and I’m like a rusty hinge on a garden gate, willing to open up, but not sure I am able. The last few weeks have been filled with drama, followed by a mid-summer lethargy that is common in the deep South, when the temperature stays in the mid-90′s and the humidity is even worse. I break into a sweat and gasp for breath just walking from the kitchen to the garden. The only gardening I have managed is to harvest the figs, peppers and okra that thrive in this thick stew of heat. I pluck the fruit and swim inside, to the comfort of the air-conditioned cottage.
I escape the heat by flying north to New England, a reverse migration from hot to cool. I have not been home in years, and when the plane lands in Manchester, New Hampshire, I’m not sure that I will feel at home again. New roads, new buildings and exhaustion from a hellish 9-hour layover in Atlanta make me dizzy and disoriented. But after a few days’ work in the city, my best friend from high school, Laura, swoops me up and carries me away to Gloucester, Massachusetts, the oldest seaport in the country. She and her husband, Gary, own the Vista Motel, a retro-chic motel overlooking Good Harbor beach. I have a history with Good Harbor beach—Searching for sea creatures in the warm tidal pools, teenage days laying in the sun and playing in the surf. Prom night. Strolling along the edge of the icy water with my mother. Chasing after my own tiny, toddling daughter as she chases the gulls.
The Vista
When Laura and I step out of the car, I gulp in the tangy, salty air and inhale the scent of my childhood. It’s the first time I’ve been to the Vista, but I’m instantly comfortable and relaxed. The motel is a step back in time, and families are playing together in the pool, and sitting in front of their rooms on lawn chairs, enjoying the ocean views. Big Band music floats out of the breakfast room door. Daylillies and grasses dance in the cool breeze. The motel is set on a hill, and its lush, green lawn looks like it’s rolling right into the surf.
Good Harbour Beach from The Vista
The three of us head into town for dinner, to Duckworth’s Bistrot, a five-star little gem of a restaurant just a couple of miles down the road. I enjoy the refreshing chilled asparagus soup with sunflower seed pesto and the rich, succulent duck confit with roasted potato, spinach and a tangy cherry port sauce. We take the rest of our wine home and finish it on the balcony, watching the effervescent surf crash on the rocks out on the point and filling each other in on the last few years. When we finally go to bed, I sleep like a rock. On Friday morning, we hike the lush paths of nearby Halibut Point out to the granite quarry, with its stunning waterfront views.
The Quarry at Halibut Point
Laura surprises me with a trip to the spa, where I’m pampered with a facial and a body scrub, and a spray tan! I joke that I look like Snookie, but I really just lose my pasty office complexion. We wander through the little shops downtown, greeted by resident pups, local artisans, and friendly shop owners. I buy a new sundress and Laura buys a pretty green linen jacket. A late afternoon snack at Alchemy is next. The grilled asparagus with poached egg, truffle oil, shaved grana, and cracked pepper is perfect. Alchemy is a foodie haven with a great atmosphere and a commitment to serving local, organic products.
Grilled Asparagus with Poached Egg at Alchemy
After a nap and a long shower, we take a sunset stroll on the beach. Refreshed by the cool, salty air, we’re ready to eat again, and we venture downtown to The Franklin Cafe for a light dinner. Laura has been raving about the Tuna Tartare, and since it’s one of my favorites, I’m excited to taste it. The tendersweet tuna, dressed in a cucumber wasabi sauce, doesn’t disappoint, and the neighborhood cafe oozes New England charm and elegance.
Evening at The Franklin
In the morning, it is time for me to leave. We stop off at Cape Ann Coffees, where Laura’s stunning friend, Dorthe, the shop’s owner, serves us steaming hazelnut coffee and packs us oatmeal raisin cookies for the drive to my brother’s house. I buy a freshly-made blueberry pie, with a golden lattice crust and berry juice spilling over the sides. We cruise down the turnpike and meet my brother at the agreed-upon halfway point. I’m so happy to see him, I want to cry. I hug Laura goodbye and promise to come back next summer, for a whole week. I’m already looking forward to it.
P. Allen Smith’s Garden2Blog, Part II
P. Allen Smith’s Garden2Blog 2012, Part I
A Contest for Gardeners
Morning Miracles
Cooking With Kids – Triple Berry Freezer Jam
Minted Snow Peas
Sunset Spring Garden Walk
What a treat to meet you. Our walk on Good harbor beach was great, I have never seen the tide that low before, my first. Enjoy August and keep on writing.
It was such a pleasure to meet you, Dorthe. Our walk on the beach was a spa treatment in itself, and we thoroughly enjoyed your homemade baked goods and fresh, hot coffee. I always love meeting women that are living their dreams. I hope to see you again next summer! Thank you for your hospitality!
Laura must have been gleeming to do that calendar of events with you. She works hard and I’m glad you came up to give her the excuse to take a break. Cheers, (Future “Silver friend”) Bob Ryan
We had a wonderful time catching up and enjoying Cape Ann. Laura does work hard, and it shows at her beautiful place!
Found this link through GMG, what great pictures and really enjoyed the story!
Best,
Jenn
Thanks, Jenn. I’m so glad that you enjoyed it!
Carolyn, it sounds like you had the perfect summer respite. Sounds divine…even down to wanting a bite of that lattice topped pie!
I did enjoy my respite (although it was too short). I could actually use a slice of that blueberry pie right now.
Ooh- forgot to ask if Laura told you about Neptune’s Harvest fertilizer, made here in Gloucester from fish gurry? The best and totally organic… neptunesharvest.com Happy gardening!
Hi Linn: It was great to meet you, too, and I really enjoyed the wonderful community that makes up Main Street. And I am familiar with Neptune’s Harvest–it is a great product!
Great meeting you on Main Street, Carolyn! Laura was so happy that you came to visit her. The old Girl Scout song is true- Make new friends, but keep the old; one is Siver and the other is Gold. You’re Gold!
We had such a great time, Carolyn, thank you so much for the visit and the wonderful post, it brought it all back again!! Can’t wait for next year!
Velva Knapp over at Tomatoes On The Vine suggested I stop by and it does look like we have several things in common from gardening to curing meat (pastrami) – I’ll be back.
Hi Larry, and welcome! So glad that you dropped by. Tell Velva hello!
I love that area of Massachusetts. I used to live in Boston. Seeing your photos make me want to go sometime soon! I hope you are feeling relaxed and energized again.
We could eat our way through Boston together!
Aww, you were about 35 minutes from me.
I live just a little north in Newburyport. Gloucester and all of Cape Ann is just beautiful. I’m glad you could fit a little getaway in for yourself!
Next time, I’ll drop by for one of your Cherry Bourbon Pies!
It was great to see you. Family, a very late night, many cocktails, and tons of laughs. We miss you, thanks for coming to visit us all. Love, You little Brother
Cocktails? What cocktails? It was a fantastic visit, and so much fun to see my beloved family. Love you!
Sounds like a fun and relaxing trip. I would love to visit Gloucester one day(I’m a wooden boat & maritime museum buff). The pics are amazing, too! Thanks for sharing
It was so much fun, and I can’ wait to back next summer. We’re maritime people, too, and used to sail up there every weekend.
Love the share wonderful to see where you spent your vactaion away from the Virtual Garden <|;-)
Always nice to have you visit, Annie!